This full-bodied red is filled with concentrated mocha, spice and dark
plum flavors. Powerful, showing plenty of mincemeat and dark chocolate
notes that linger on the ripe finish, with hints of mint. Drink now
through 2013. 100 cases imported. - WS 90 points
The 2007 Minervois Giocoso - which I tasted assembled from tank - is
65% Grenache (raised in tank), with a balance of Syrah and Carignan
(raised in barrique, half new), and incorporates fruit from outside of
the La Liviniere sub-appellation. Black raspberry, blackberry, carob,
gingerbread, and nutmeg in the nose set the theme for a richly ripe yet
berry-tart palate of seductive spiciness and underlain by what it is
hard not to imagine as something analogous to the schistic stone (rare
for Minervois) and chalk on which these grapes grew. This shows a rare
purity, lift, refinement, and vivacity you will seek virtually in vain
anywhere in this appellation, and the finish is invigorating to the
point of exhilaration. I expect it will reward at least 6-8 years of
cellaring. Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La
Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of
Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of
their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of
their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at
picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and
berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or
two months! "While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,"
says Claude, "Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the
minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!"
I've heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I'm not sure to what
extent I'd call these wines "Burgundian." But purity of fruit and
elements one can only describe as "mineral," they surely display in
abundance. It would be less misleading - and no exaggeration - to say
that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and
bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines
ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing
extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying "of that
appellation," incidentally, because not all L'Oustal Blanc wines follow
the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The
Fonquerle's mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques
Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their
upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. - WA (92-93) points
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