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Weingut Hüls Riesling Letterlay 2017

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White wine. Mosel, Germany. Organic. 100% Riesling. "As with last year’s installment, this tank-rendered bottling from a mixture of older and very recently planted vines reflects a 10–15% inclusion of hand-destemmed whole berries in the ferment. The vines in question are only around 150 meters away from those that inform Hüls’ Steffensberg bottling, but some combination of terroir and vine genetics renders the two wines distinctly different. “Where the Steffensberg has more breadth and is almost a bit Burgundian,” Hüls suggested, “the Letterlay is by nature classic, filigreed Mosel,” and for that reason he included the whole berries to potentially add structure. Apple and lime offer a tangy but more cooling and less vibrant performance than in the Steffensberg. There is a decisive sense of underlying stone as well as impressive sheer persistence, and I would not be surprised to witness this gaining in interest with a bit of bottle age." — 89 Points, David Schildknecht, Vinous (January 2020)